KokokeʻO ka hapalua o nā lole o ka honua i hana ʻia me ka polyester a ua wānana ʻo Greenpeace i kēia nui e aneane pālua i ka makahiki 2030. No ke aha? ʻO ke ʻano haʻuki inā ʻo kekahi o nā kumu nui ma hope o ia: ke ʻimi nei ka nui o nā mea kūʻai aku i nā lole ʻoi aku ka lōʻihi a me ke kūpaʻa. ʻO ka pilikia, ʻo ka polyester ʻaʻole ia he koho textile hoʻomau, no ka mea, ua hana ʻia mai ka polyethylene terephthalate (PET), ka ʻano plastic maʻamau i ka honua. I ka pōkole, ʻo ka hapa nui o kā mākou mau lole e hele mai ana mai ka ʻaila maʻemaʻe, ʻoiai ke kāhea nei ka Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) i nā hana koʻikoʻi e mālama i ka mahana o ka honua i kahi kiʻekiʻe o 1.5 °C ma mua o nā pae hana.

ʻEkolu mau makahiki i hala aku nei, ua hoʻokūkū ka hui waiwai ʻole ʻo Textile Exchange ma luna o 50 textile, lole a me nā hui kūʻai aku (me nā hui nunui e like me Adidas, H&M, Gap a me Ikea) e hoʻonui i kā lākou hoʻohana ʻana i ka polyester recycled e 25 pakeneka e 2020. Ua hana: i ka mahina i hala. , Ua hoʻopuka ka hui i kahi ʻōlelo e hoʻolauleʻa nei ʻaʻole i hoʻokō wale nā ​​​​mea hōʻailona i ka pahuhopu ʻelua mau makahiki ma mua o ka lā palena, ua ʻoi aku lākou ma mua o ka hoʻonui ʻana i kā lākou hoʻohana ʻana i ka polyester recycled e 36 pakeneka. Eia hou, he ʻumikūmālua mau ʻoihana i hoʻohiki e hui pū i ka hoʻokūkū i kēia makahiki. Manaʻo ka hui i ka 20 pakeneka o nā polyester a pau e hana hou ʻia e 2030.

Loaʻa ka polyester recycled, ʻike ʻia hoʻi ʻo rPET, ma ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana i ka plastic i loaʻa a wili hou iā ia i loko o ka fiber polyester hou. ʻOiai e nānā nui ʻia ka rPET i hana ʻia mai nā ʻōmole plastik a me nā ipu i hoʻolei ʻia e nā mea kūʻai aku, ʻoiaʻiʻo, hiki ke hoʻohana hou ʻia ka polyethylene terephthalate mai nā mea hoʻokomo ma hope o ka ʻoihana a me ka mea hoʻohana. Akā, no ka hāʻawi ʻana i kahi laʻana, ʻelima ʻōmole soda e hāʻawi i ka fiber lawa no hoʻokahi T-shirt nui.

ʻOiaihana hou i ka plasticMe he manaʻo maikaʻi ʻole e hiki ke hoʻopaʻapaʻa ʻia, ʻaʻole lōʻihi ka hoʻolauleʻa ʻana o rPET mai ka lokahi ʻana i ke kaiāulu ʻano hoʻomau. Ua hōʻiliʻili ʻo FashionUnited i nā manaʻo nui mai nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua.

ʻO ka polyester hou: nā mea maikaʻi

1. Ka mālama ʻana i nā palaka mai ka hele ʻana i ka ʻāina a me ke kai-Hāʻawi ka polyester recycled i ke ola ʻelua i kahi mea hiki ʻole ke biodegradable a i ʻole e hoʻopau ʻia i ka pae ʻāina a i ʻole ke kai. Wahi a ka NGO Ocean Conservancy, 8 miliona metric tons o ka plastic i komo i ka moana i kēlā me kēia makahiki, ma luna o ka 150 miliona metric tons i manaʻo ʻia e holo nei i nā kaiapuni kai. Inā mākou e hoʻomau i kēia kaʻina, ma ka makahiki 2050 e ʻoi aku ka nui o ka plastic i loko o ke kai ma mua o ka iʻa. Loaʻa ka palaki i loko o 60 pākēneka o nā manu kai a me 100 pākēneka o nā ʻano honu kai a pau, no ka mea, kuhi hewa lākou i ka plastic i ka meaʻai.

No ka pae ʻāina, ua hōʻike ka United States Environmental Protection Agency i ka loaʻa ʻana o 26 miliona mau tone plastic i ka makahiki 2015 wale nō i nā ʻāina ʻāina. Manaʻo ka EU i ka nui like e hana ʻia i kēlā me kēia makahiki e kona mau lālā. ʻO nā lole he mea kānalua ʻole kahi hapa nui o ka pilikia: ma UK, kahi hōʻike a ka Waste and Resources Action Program (WRAP) i manaʻo ʻia ma kahi o 140 miliona mau paona o nā lole e pau i nā pae ʻāina i kēlā me kēia makahiki. "ʻO ka lawe ʻana i ka ʻōpala palaka a hoʻololi iā ia i mea pono no ke kanaka a me ko mākou kaiapuni," wahi a Karla Magruder, ka Luna Hoʻokele o Textile Exchange, ma ka leka uila i FashionUnited.

2. Ua like ka maikaʻi o ka rPET e like me ka polyester puʻupaʻa, akā ʻoi aku ka liʻiliʻi o nā kumuwaiwai e hana ai - ʻO ka polyester Recycled ua aneane like me ka polyester puʻupaʻa ma ke ʻano o ka maikaʻi, akā pono kāna hana ʻana he 59 pakeneka emi ka ikehu ma mua o ka polyester puʻupaʻa, e like me ka noiʻi 2017. e ke Keʻena Federal Federal no ka Environment. Manaʻo ʻo WRAP i ka hana ʻana o rPET e hōʻemi i ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana o CO2 ma 32 pakeneka ma ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana me ka polyester maʻamau. "Inā ʻoe e nānā i nā loiloi o ke ola, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka rPET ma mua o ka PET puʻupaʻa," wahi a Magruder.

Eia kekahi, hiki i ka polyester recycled ke kōkua i ka hoʻemi ʻana i ka ʻili ʻana o ka ʻaila ʻaila a me ke kinoea maoli mai ka Honua e hana hou i ka plastic. "ʻO ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka polyester recycled e hōʻemi i ko mākou hilinaʻi ʻana i ka ʻaila ma ke ʻano he kumu waiwai," wahi a ka pūnaewele o waho o ka brand Patagonia, kaulana loa no ka hana ʻana i ka huluhulu mai nā ʻōmole soda i hoʻohana ʻia, nā ʻōpala hana hiki ʻole ke hoʻohana ʻia a me nā lole kahiko. "Hoʻopau ia i ka hoʻolei ʻana, a laila e hoʻolōʻihi i ke ola ʻāina a hōʻemi i nā hoʻokuʻu ʻawaʻawa mai nā incinerators. He mea kōkua nō hoʻi i ka hoʻolaha ʻana i nā kahawai hou no nā lole polyester ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻohana hou ʻia, "hoʻohui ʻia ka lepili.

"No ka mea, ʻo ka polyester e pili ana i ka 60 pakeneka o ka honua i hana ʻia o PET - ma kahi o ʻelua mau mea i hoʻohana ʻia i loko o nā hue plastik - ka hoʻomohala ʻana i kahi kaulahao lako ʻole no ka polyester fiber hiki ke hoʻopilikia nui i ka ikehu honua a me nā pono waiwai," wahi a ʻAmelika. ʻO Nau, ʻike ʻia no ka hoʻokumu ʻana i nā koho lole hoʻomau.

ʻO ka polyester i hana hou ʻia: nā pōʻino

1. He mau palena ko ka hana hou ana -ʻAʻole i hana ʻia nā lole he nui mai ka polyester wale nō, akā mai ka hui ʻana o ka polyester a me nā mea ʻē aʻe. I kēlā hihia, ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī, inā ʻaʻole hiki ʻole ke hana hou iā lākou. "I kekahi mau hihia, hiki ke hana, no ka laʻana, hui pū me ka polyester a me ka pulupulu. Aia nō naʻe ma ka pae hoʻokele. ʻO ka paʻakikī ka loaʻa ʻana o nā kaʻina hana hiki ke hoʻonui pono ʻia a ʻaʻole mākou i laila, "wahi a Magruder iā Suston Magazine ma 2017. ʻO kekahi mau laminations a me nā hoʻopau ʻana i hoʻopili ʻia i nā lole hiki ke hoʻolilo iā lākou ʻaʻole hiki ke hana hou ʻia.

ʻAʻole hiki ke hana hou ʻia nā lole i 100% polyester. ʻElua ala e hana hou ai i ka PET: me ka mechanical a me ke kemika. "Ke lawe nei ka mīkini hana hou i ka ʻōmole plastik, holoi, ʻokiʻoki a hoʻohuli hou i loko o kahi puʻupuʻu polyester, a laila e hele i ke kaʻina hana kuʻuna fiber. Ke lawe nei ka hana hou ʻana i ke kemika i kahi huahana palaka ʻōpala a hoʻihoʻi iā ia i kāna monomers mua, ʻaʻole hiki ke ʻike ʻia mai ka polyester puʻupaʻa. Hiki iā lākou ke hoʻi i loko o ka ʻōnaehana hana polyester maʻamau, "i wehewehe ʻo Magruder iā FashionUnited. Loaʻa ka hapa nui o ka rPET ma o ka hana hou ʻana i ka mīkini, no ka mea ʻo ia ka mea liʻiliʻi loa o nā kaʻina hana ʻelua a ʻaʻole koi i nā kemika ʻē aʻe ma mua o nā mea holoi e pono ai e hoʻomaʻemaʻe i nā mea komo. Eia naʻe, "ma o kēia kaʻina hana, hiki i ka fiber ke nalowale i kona ikaika a no laila pono e hui pū ʻia me ka fiber puʻupaʻa," wahi a ka Swiss Federal Office for the Environment.

"Ke manaʻoʻiʻo nei ka hapa nui o ka poʻe e hiki ke hana hou ʻia nā plastics, akā i kēlā me kēia manawa e hoʻomehana ʻia ka plastic, e hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻia, no laila e hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻia ka hoʻololi hou ʻana o ka polymer a pono e hoʻohana ʻia ka plastic e hana i nā huahana haʻahaʻa," wahi a Patty Grossman, ka mea hoʻokumu ʻElua Sisters Ecotextiles, ma ka leka uila i FashionUnited. ʻO Textile Exchange, akā naʻe, ʻōlelo ʻo ia ma kāna pūnaewele hiki ke hana hou ʻia ka rPET no nā makahiki he nui: "ʻo nā lole mai ka polyester recycled e manaʻo e hoʻomau hou ʻia me ka ʻole o ka hōʻino ʻana o ka maikaʻi", i kākau ai ka hui, me ka hoʻohui ʻana he hiki ke lilo i ka pōʻai lole polyester " he ʻōnaehana hoʻopaʻa ʻia” i kekahi lā.

ʻO ka poʻe e hahai ana i ka manaʻo o Grossman e hoʻopaʻapaʻa e hana ka honua a hoʻopau i ka liʻiliʻi i ka plastic ma ka laulā. Inā manaʻo ka lehulehu e hiki ke hana hou ʻia nā mea a pau a lākou e hoʻolei aku ai, ʻaʻole paha lākou e ʻike i ka pilikia i ka hoʻomau ʻana i ka ʻai ʻana i nā mea i hoʻopau ʻia. ʻO ka mea pōʻino, he wahi liʻiliʻi wale nō o ka plastic a mākou e hoʻohana nei e hana hou ʻia. Ma ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa, he 9 pākēneka wale nō o nā plastics āpau i hana hou ʻia i ka makahiki 2015, e like me ka US Environmental Protection Agency.

ʻO ka poʻe e kāhea ana i kahi ʻike haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa o rPET e pale aku i ka paipai ʻia ʻana o nā hōʻailona hana a me nā mea kūʻai aku e makemake i nā fiber maoli e like me ka hiki. Ma hope o nā mea a pau, ʻoiai ʻo ka rPET e lawe i ka 59 pakeneka ka liʻiliʻi o ka ikehu e hana ai ma mua o ka polyester puʻupaʻa, pono ia e ʻoi aku ka ikaika ma mua o ka hemp, ka huluhulu a me ka pulupulu kūlohelohe a maʻamau, e like me ka hōʻike 2010 mai ka Stockholm Environment Institute.